48024 on 34 ex Manchester, Stagecoach SE 48024 is seen at the RH&DR Bus Rally displaying the 34 to Ramsgate
08.09.2024
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explained, can't you see the arcading, she asked.
Soon I saw the brasses on the floor, and memorials on the wall. In my defence, I have seen such things in Victorian churches, so, Normal it is. In parts.
Lots to see, in a church built on one level, quite the feat as its on a hill, so it feels larger, and from the outside, imposing, made of knapped flints and with the air of a prison.
But I was welcomed, and it is clearly a vibrant and living church, I enjoyed my visit, but need to go back to complete shots of the numerous memorials on the walls, as people were eating and socialising at the west end of the church.
I walked back to the car, with the intention of driving to Ramsgate for another stap at Pugin's church, but as we left the sprawl of Margate and that merged with the hell that is Westwood Cross, the rain began, and just got harder and harder.
So the plan to go to Ramsgate was abandoned, and instead we drove home through Biblical rain along to Sandwich then via the Eastry by-pass to home.
Where, once inside, and having to put the table lamp on as it was already so dark at one in the afternoon, I put the kettle on and we have a brew.
Thankfully, lots of international football is now on You Tube, so I spend several hours watching game after game, while sitting with Scully, drinking beer and eating Mini Cheddars.
Outside, day turns to night as we get a month's worth of rain in an afternoon, and the cats refuse to go out.
So it goes, so it goes.
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The north west spire is quite a local landmark, although surprisingly not from the seaside resort which grew up six hundred years after the present building was finished. Like its other Thanet neighbours, St Johns served an inland farming community and lost its centre of population as a new Margate turned to face the sea in the eighteenth century. The exterior is slightly forbidding, with well-barred windows and only the dainty ridge tiles on the roof breaking the austerity of the semi-urban churchyard. However the interior is an absolute treasure-house making this one of the most appealing interiors in the county. The long aisled nave has wonderful Norman arcades of strength and beauty and because there is no different in floor level between nave and chancel the church seems enormous. The aisles are paved with many black marble ledger slabs whilst the walls are peppered with tablets and hatchments of eighteenth and nineteenth century date. The most remarkable tablet is the gargantuan inscription of 1767 next to the north door. Of a more standard design is the early seventeenth century Cleybrooke monument in the south chapel which, amazingly, still retains its original funeral helm. Twentieth century re-ordering has added - rather than taken from - the enjoyment of the interior bringing the church bang up to date and making it relevant to modern worship. The Victorian stained glass - of which there is much - is a very mixed bag indeed with two south aisle windows of the 1870s by the respected firm of Lavers, Barraud and Westlake and a chancel window by Ward and Hughes. It is just as well that the studio which provided the series depicting the Beatitudes in the north aisle did not sign their work. They really do mark the nadir of the ancient art!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Margate+1
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ST. JOHN's, alias MARGATE,
IS THE NEXT ADJOINING PARISH north-eastward from Woodchurch, which latter, though only a borough within it, has so greatly increased in buildings of late years, and become so noted from the resort of company to it yearly, that it has almost obliterated its antient parochial name of St. John's, that of Margate being the only one now known to most people.
This parish is within the liberty and jurisdiction of the cinque ports, and is an antient member of the town and port, of Dover, and though united to it ever since king Edward I.'s reign, yet so late as in that of king Henry VI. it became a dispute, whether this parish was not in the county at large; to take away therefore all doubt of it, that king, by his letters patent, united it to Dover, to which place it is subject in all matters of civil jurisdiction. The mayor of Dover appoints one of the inhabitants to be his deputy here; but though he bears the name of the mayor's deputy, he has no power to administer an oath, or to act as the mayor himself might do if he was present. This officer is chosen either every year, or once in two or three years, at the pleasure of the mayor of Dover, and appoints a sub-deputy. He had antiently an assessment allowed him every year, to bear the charge he was at, in the execution of his office, out of which he paid several sums, by reason of the dependency of this parish on the town and port of Dover.
In this parish, and the other two parishes of St. Peter and Birchington, there were two companies of foot soldiers raised, which used to be mustered by the deputy constable of Dover, which was a considerable expence to the inhabitants, the governor and his attendants being all treated by them and their charges borne, which was done out of this deputy's rate or assessment. Out of the same rate there were built in 1624 two watch houses and a watch-bell, hung on the cage, and anothere watch-house built in the fort; out of this rate likewise were provided two brass guns for the fort, with appurtenances and ammunition for them; and a barrel with pitch to set upon the beacon; out of it were defrayed the charges of filling up the sea-gates made in the cliff, to prevent rogues from coming up into the country that way from the sea, to steal and plunder, especially in time of war; thus Fayernesse gate was dammed up in 1618; but such an asiessment has been discontinued for more than one hundred years past. (fn. 1)
THIS PARISH OF ST. JOHN, which is about three miles and a half across each way, has much the same appearance, as those parishes in this island heretofore described, consisting of open uninclosed corn lands, with frequent hill and dale, the soil mostly chalk. It is accounted an exceeding healthy situation, and the inhabitants long lived. In the year 1563, as appears by archbishop Parker's return to the order of the privy council, here were one hundred and seven housholds; but so far had they increased between that time, to when Mr. Lewis wrote his History of Thanet in 1736, that there were then computed to be in this parish, (including Margate) about six hundred families, which would make the number of inhabitants about two thousand four hundred in the whole. They are now increased to upwards of seven hundred families.
The village or town, now called Margate, situated in the borough of that name, a further account of which will be given hereaster, lies on the sea shore, on the north side of it, extending southwards, on the ascent of a hill, on the knoll of which stands the church. Besides the town of Margate, there are several other small villes, or clusters of houses in this parish. Westbrooke, (from west of the Brooks) lies about a quarter of a mile westward from Margate. Garling, which is a pretty large ville, consists of near twenty houses, about midway between Margate and Birchington, In this hamlet is a farm called Garling's farm, which belongs to the hospitals of Bridewell, and Bethlem, in London. Mutterer has about three cottages a little nearer to Birchington. Southward from Garling is Twenties and Lyden, and then Vincents, now the property of Mr. Francis Smith; all at present are only single farm houses, yet almost within memory, at the latter there was another dwelling house; and by the great number of disused wells found hereabout, it should seem that there were antiently many more houses at this place, which seems to account for the situation of the oratory or chapel, called Dene chapel, built by Sir Henry de Sandwich about the year 1230, to which resorted not only the lord of that manor and his family, but the inhabitants of Twenties, Vincents, and Fleet likewise, purchased by Henry, lord Holland, which has since passed in like manner as Kingsgate, and his other estates in this island, and is now owned by Wm. Roberts, esq. in the middle of, or at least at a convenient distance from those farm houses, this little oratory was placed. Chapel-hill house belongs to Miss Browne.—Fleet above-mentioned, is a place at the southern extremity of this parish, at a small distance from Vincents, extending partly into the parishes of St. Laurence and Minster. It was antiently a place of some account, having been the inheritance of a family, written in antient records de Fleta, who were resident here about the reign of king John, or of Henry III. at present there is only a small farm-house, one tenement, and the ruins of another. Philipott says, the family of Fleet sealed with Chequy, on a canton, a lion rampant, as appeared by antient ordinaries and alphabets of arms. In James I.'s time, one of this family ended in a daughter and coheir, married to Philipott, who became entitled to this estate, and possessed it in 1656.
Southward from the church is Draper's hospital, and the same distance further a good house called Updowne, belonging to Mr. Farrer; about half a mile from which is Nash-court, and about as much further Little Nash. In the eastern part of the parish are the two hamlets of East North Down, and West North Down, (the latter about two miles eastward from the church, the former about one only,) and lastly Lucas Dane, almost adjoining to Margate, in the same valley.
The northern and eastern sides of this parish are bounded by the sea-shore, along the whole of which there is a continued range of high chalk cliffs, excepting in the opening between that space, where the harbour and pier of Margate, with the town, stands, and a small place to the westward of it.
THE BOROUGH AND TOWN OF MARGATE is situated on the northern bounds of this parish, adjoining to the sea. This borough was antiently bounded on the land side byavery large lynch or bank, a considerable part of which has been so long since ploughed up, that no one knows the bounds of it on that side. It seems to have had the name of Margate, or more properly Meregate, from there being here an opening or gate, through which there was a small mere, or stream, running into the sea.
On that side of the town next the sea, was a pier of timber, built east and west, in the form of a half circle, to defend the bay from the main sea, and make a small harbour for ships of no great burthen, such as the corn and other hoys, and the fishing craft. By the present appearance of the chalky rocks, which were the foundations of the old cliffs, on each side of this pier at low water, it seems as if antiently nature itself had formed a creek or harbour here, the mouth of which was just broad enough to let small vessels go in and out of it; but since the inning of the levels on the south side of this island, the sea having borne har der on the east and north parts of it, the land on each side of this creek has been, in process of time, washed quite away by the sea, and the inhabitants were obliged to build this pier to prevent the town's being overflowed by the ocean, and to desend that part of it which lies next the water by piles of timber and jettees. This pier was at first but small, and went but a little way from the land, but the cliffs still continuing to be washed away, the sea by that means lay more heavily on the back of it than usual, and rendered it necessary to enlarge it by degrees, to what it is at present. At what time this pier was first built is unknown, that it was so long before the reign of king Henry VIII. is certain from Leland's account of it, (who lived in that reign) for he says, Itin. vol. vii. "Margate lyith in St. John's paroche yn Thanet a v myles upward fro Reculver, and there is a village and a peere for shyppes but now sore decayed;" which shews it to have been built many years before; and it seems to intimate, either that there were then no dues paid for the maintenance and preservation of it, or that the trade to it was so small, that those dues were not sufficient to keep it in repair. However this be, it is very certain that this pier was not then near so large as it is now, and that the lands in this island were not in such a state of cultivation as they have been of late years, and consequently the droits paid for corn shipped, by which it now chiefly subsists, were not near so much as they are now. In queen Elizabeth's reign, it is certain this pier was maintained by certain rates, paid by corn and other merchandize shipped and landed in it, which rates were confirmed by the several lord wardens of the cinque ports, who have from time to time renewed and altered the decrees, made for the ordering of this little harbour, under the management of two pier-wardens and two deputies, who were to collect the droits or dues to it, and inspect and provide for the necessary support and repairs of it. The oldest of these decrees is dated in 1615, and confirmed by Edward, lord Zouch, lord warden, chancellor and admiral of the cinque ports. In these decrees or orders, it is said, that they have been usually confirmed by the lord wardens for the time being, and time out of mind used by the inhabitants of Margate and St. John's, in the island of Thanet. By virtue of these orders, &c. two persons resident in Margate and St. John's, were every year chosen on May-day, to take care of this pier, by the name of pier-wardens; and two others called deputy pier-wardens. It is the office of these wardens and their deputies, to collect the droits, as they are called, or the monies due to the pier; of which they are to give an account to the parishioners, and their successors in this office, within twenty days after the choice of new pier-wardens. It is likewise the office of the pier-wardens to inspect and provide for the repairs of the pier; but they cannot make any new works above the value of five pounds, without the consent of the inhabitants.
But it appears, notwithstanding this care for the preservation of the pier, that through neglect of the persons employed, it by degrees fell still further to decay, insomuch, that in the year 1662, complaint was made to James, duke of York, then lord warden and admiral of the cinque ports, that this pier and harbour was much ruinated and decayed, and that the monies formerly collected and received for the repairs of it, had not been duly improved for that purpose, and that for a long time past there had not been any due account given, or elections made of successive pier-wardens yearly, as by antient customs and orders of former lord wardens ought to be. This state of the pier and a supposition, which was generally believed, that the pier-wardens had no power to compel the payment of the droits, or harbour dues, went forward from time to time, and seemed to threaten the entire ruin of it, which induced the pier-wardens and inhabitants at last, in the 11th year of king George I. to petition parliament for an act to enable them more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of the pier; which act passed accordingly that year. The title of the act is, to enable the pier-wardens of the town of Margate, more effectually to recover the antient and accustomary droits for the support and maintenance of the said pier. The preamble to the act recites, that the antient town of Margate had, time out of mind, had a pier and harbour very commodious, and of great benefit and advantage to the trade and navigation of this kingdom, in the preservation of ships and mariners in storms and stress of weather, and from enemies in times of wars; and also very convenient for the exporting and importing many sorts of commodities. That the safety of the town of Margate, and of all the neighbouring country depending upon the preservation of this pier and harbour; there had been towards the maintenance and preservation of it, time immemorial, paid to the pier-wardens, or their deputies for the time being, certain droits, commonly called poundage, or lastage; and other rates or duties, which had been confirmed by the orders and decrees of the lords wardens of the cinque ports; without the due payment of which, this pier or harbour must inevitably fall to decay, to the utter ruin of the inhabitants of this town, and of all the neighbouring country, and to the great prejudice of the trade and navigation of the kingdom. Lastly, that it was necessary to make more effectual provision, as well for the recovery of the said droits, rates, and duties aforesaid, and for the enforcing of due payment of them, as for the better securing the said pier and harbour: It was therefore enacted, that the antient droits should be continued and paid, and that to this end the pier-wardens should chuse collectors, who should be allowed for their pains in the collecting of them, not exceeding one shilling and sixpence in the pound, and should give security for the same, and that their accounts should be yearly audited by the pier-wardens, with divers other regulations, powers, and penalties, for the better carrying forward of the same. Lastly, that all sums of money collected should be paid to the pier-wardens, to be laid out in repairing and improving the pier and harbour, and not applied to any other use; and that the pier-wardens should have power to prevent all annoyances in the harbour. Under this act the pier was maintained till the year 1787, when an application to parliament being intended for the improvement of the town of Margate, the rebuilding and improvement of the pier was applied for at the same time, and an act of parliament passed that year, anno 27 George III. for that purpose, as well as for ascertaining, establishing and recovering, certain duties, in lieu of the antient and accustomary droits, for the support and maintenance of this pier. Since this the old wooden pier has begun to be new cased on both sides with stone, and extended, and the whole is now compleatly finished. An act of parliament was passed this present year (1799) to amend the former, by encreasing the droits, and enabling the commissioners to make further improvements. This will certainly add to the increase of the trade of this place, and the general benefit of the inhabitants of Margate, and country contiguous to it. (fn. 2)
The rates, according to which the droits for the maintenance of this pier are at present settled, as well by the late act, as by the commissioners impowered so to do, are by much too long to be inserted here.
Most of the shipping trade, which was once pretty large, before the harbour was so much washed away by the sea, and the ships began to be built too large to lay up here, has been long since removed to London. However, there are still some ships of burthen resort hither for the importation of coals from Newcastle and Sunderland; and of deals, &c. from Memel and Riga; besides this, the exportation of corn and other product of the farms in this island is very considerable from this harbour, as is the quantity of goods of every sort from London, brought in daily by the hoys for the supply of the shops and other inhabitants of this place and neighbourhood; to which may be added the several passage-boats, or yachts, as they are now called, which are neatly fitted up with cabins and other accommodations, and sail every day to and from London, constantly freighted with passengers, baggage and other lading belonging to them; and the number of persons, which the inhabitants boast are carried to and from this place in the vessels yearly, is almost beyond a moderate credibility, even to 18,000 on an average.
As the passage from England to Holland is reckoned the shortest from this place, many great personages have embarked here from time to time for the continent. In particular, in king James I.'s reign, the elector palatine, the king's son-in-law, with the electress Elizabeth his wife, embarked from this place for Holland. In later times king William III. often came hither in his way to and from Holland; king George I. twice landed here; and king George II. and queen Caroline his consort, with the young princesses, came first on shore and staid all night at this place; and that successful and victorious General John, the great duke of Marlborough, chose this place for his embarking, and landing again to and from the several campaigns he made abroad.
THE TOWN of Margate was till of late years a poor inconsiderable fishing town, built for the most part in the valley adjoining to the harbour, the houses of which were in general mean and low; one dirty narrow lane, now called King-street, having been the principal street of it. It does not seem ever to have been in any great repute for its fishery or trade; and this appears more fully from the return made on a survey, by order of queen Elizabeth, in her 8th year, of the several maritime places in this county, in which it was returned, that there were in Margate, houses inhabited one hundred and eight; persons lacking proper habitations eight; boats and other vessels fifteen; viz. eight of one ton, one of two, one of five, four of eighteen, one of sixteen; persons belonging to these boats, occupied in the carrying of grain and fishing, sixty.
There was a market kept here as long ago as 1631, of which a return to Dover was made every month; but this seems not to have continued long, nor does it appear by what authority it was kept at all.
From this state of insignificance Margate rose unexpectedly, and that no long time since, to wealth and consequence, owing principally to the universal recommendation of sea air and bathing, and the rage of the Londoners at the same time of spending their summer months at those watering places situated on the sea coast; and when it came to be known that the shore here was so well adapted to bathing, being an entire level and covered with the finest sand, which extends for several miles on each side the harbour, and the easy distance from the metropolis, with the conveniency of so frequent a passage by water, it gave Margate a preference before all others, to which the beauty and healthiness of it, and of the adjoining country, contributed still more.
THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Westbere.
The church, which is dedicated to St. John Baptist, stands about half a mile from the lower part of Margate southward, on the knoll of the hill; it is a large building of flints, covered with rough-cast; the quoins, windows and door cases of ashlar stone. It consists of three isles and three chancels, having a low square tower, with a small pointed turret on it at the west end of the north isle, in which is a clock and six bells.
The north chancel is dedicated to St. James. The whole building of the church is low and of a considerable length, and seems to have been raised at several times. The roofs of the north and south isles and chancels are covered with lead; on that side which is outermost on the north side of the high or middle chancel, is a square building of hewn stone with battlements, and a flat roof covered with lead, and the windows guarded with a double set of iron bars. This most probably was intended and used formerly for the church treasury, or safe repository of the plate and valuable relicts belonging to it. At the beginning of the last century, being then of no kind of use, it was employed as a store-house for gunpowder, shot, &c. for the use of the fort, and was repaired by the deputies; but in 1701 it was fitted up and has since been made use of as a vestry. The tower was somewhat too small for the former ring of bells which were in it, consisting of six very tuneable ones; they were by much the largest of any hereabouts, the other parishes having before lessened theirs by casting their old bells anew. A partition divided the west end of the south isle from the body of the church, which was made use of fora school-house. At the end of the south isle is the font, of stone, octagonal, on the several sides are the arms of the Cinque Ports and England quartered with France. In the middle isle was a tombstone, without any inscription, having a cross on it, and the Greek X. (for xpistos) intermixed, which signisies its being for one of the priestly order; perhaps this might be the monument of St. Imarus, who was a monk of Reculver, and is said by Leland, col. vol. iv. to have been buried in this church. Among other memorials in this church are the following: In the middle chancel a stone, with brass effigies, for Tho. Smyth, vicar, obt. 1433. On a brass plate, the effigies of a priest, and inscription for Thomas Cardiffe, vicar for fifty-five years, obt. 1515, which is engraved in Lewis's History of Thanet. A memorial on brass for Nicholas Chewney, S. T. P. twenty years pastor of this church, obt. 1685. Several brass plates and inscriptions for the Norwoods, one in the middle chancel, covered now by the matting and seats, for Thomas Cleve, gent. obt. 1604. A memorial for John Coppin, esq. son of William, born 1607, commander of several of the king's ships, who in two actions with the Dutch received several wounds, one of which proved mortal, and he died two days afterwards, 1666; arms, Party per pale, three boars heads, couped. In the south chancel, a plain mural monument for Henry Crisp, second son of John Crisp, of Cleave, the eldest son of John Crisp, esq. of Quekes, and elder brother of Sir Henry Crisp; arms at the top, Or, on a chevron, sable, five horse shoes, or, quartering Denne, ar gent, two leopards heads, or, on two flasques, sable. On a shield below in a lozenge, sable, on a bend ingrailed, gules, a crescent, argent, for difference. On a mural monument are the effigies, kneeling, of Paul Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, in this parish, and Mary his wife, daughter of Richard Knatchbull, esq. of Mersham, and an inscription to their memories. (fn. 22) He died 1622; arms, Argent, a cross patee, gules, impaling Knatchbull. In the south chancel is a stone, on which are in brass remaining the arms of Cleybrooke, with the crest, a demi ostrich, argent. On the north side of the chancel hangs Paul Cleybrooke's helmet, with the crest, &c. On an altar tomb underneath, a memorial for William Cleybrooke, esq. of Nash-court, ob. 1638. An inscription and effigies on a brass plate for Nicholas Canteys, obt. 1431. A memorial for George Somner, gent. of Canterbury, who being commander of a detachment of horse was slain in the conflict at Wye, obt. 1648; arms, Ermine, two chevrons, voided, impaling ermine, a cross; underneath are two lines cut out with a chisel, by order, as it is said, of the rulers then in power. In the north chancel, an inscription on a brass plate, and the effigies in armour of John Daundelyon, gent. obt. 1445, the arms torn off. Several monuments and gravestones for the family of Petit, of Dandelyon, in this parish; arms, Petit, argent, on a chevron, gules, between three lions heads, erased, sable, crowned, or, three bezants, quartered with Dandelyon, sable, three lions rampant, between two bars, dancette, argent. In the middle isle on brass plates, inscriptions, among others, for Richard Notfield, obt. 1416; for Luke Spraklyn, gent. and Mary his wife, he died in 1591. In this church likewise are the following monuments and gravestones: a handsome mural monument for William Payne, esq. of this parish, descended from the Paynes, of Shottenden; he died 1717; arms, six coats, the first of which is for Payne, Per saltier, argent and sable, a lion rampant, counterchanged. Near it a neat mural monument for Robert Brooke, merchant, and Sarah his wife, daughter of Gilbert Knowler, esq. of Herne; he died 1767; she died 1731; arms, Gules, on a chevron, argent, a lion rampant, sable. Within the altar rails is a vault for the family of Brooke. A memorial for the Rev. John Jacob, vicar of this parish, obt. 1763. Memorials for Anne, wife of Dudley Diggs, obt. 1720; for John Forbes, M. D. ob. 1780; for William Fox Parry, esq. son of William Parry, esq. vice-admiral of the red, obt. 1776. A memorial shewing that under the right hand pews lies Dame Elizabeth Rich, relict of the late Sir Robert Rich, bart. ob. 1788, wife of James Walker, M. C. of this place.— Memorials for John Leapidge, esq. of East Ham, in Essex, obt. 1789; arms, Argent, on a chevron, sable, three cinquefoils of the first, between three holly leaves, proper; for George Meard, esq. obt. 1761. It is remarkable, that though this gravestone is but four feet by two, there is 100l. by his will, vested in the 3 per cents. to keep it in repair. Memorials for the Hon. Gertrude Agar, obt. 1780. Memorials for several of the Turners, of Nash-court, in this parish. A memorial for Edward Diggs, obt. 1726, and Susanna his wife, obt. 1689. Memorials for Dudley Diggs, gent. obt. 1716, and Mary his wife, obt. 1689. Another for John Glover, gent. who died at London in 1685.—One for Humphry Pudner, gent. obt. 1671, and Mary his wife, obt. 1691, and for Peter Tomlin, obt. 1700; arms, On a fess, three right hands couped at the wrist, between three battle axes, impaling three battle axes.
In the church-yard, among many other tombs and memorials, is a plain brick tomb for Tho. Stevens, esq. he died in 1790, being the only son of Philip Stephens, esq. secretary of the admiralty, who was killed in a duel near this place, by one Anderson, an attorney, of London, at the second discharge of the pistols. On a handsome monument encompassed with iron rails, are inscriptions for the Tomlins and Lesters, and for the Brookes, all related by intermarriages; on a large tomb, arms, Lozengy, on a chief, a lion passant, guardant, and memorials for the Bakers and Cowells; on a tomb fenced in with iron rails, these arms, Parted per pale and fess, in the first quarter, a lion rampant; and a memorial for the Bings and Sollys. Another tomb and memorial for Alexander Alexander, LL. D. (master of the academy at Hampsted, and a person of considerable literary abilities) obt. 1788. Another such tomb and memorial for the Trowards. An elegant tomb and memorial for Stephen Sackett, obt. 1786, and for several of the Cobbs. A memorial for Mrs. Jane Wallis, obt. 1745, daughter of Dudley Diggs, gent. and Anne his wife, and wife of Henry Wallis, surgeon, who died 1734. A memorial on the south side of the church, for Edward Diggs, mariner, obt. 1791. On a tomb-stone, at the north side of the church, are several memorials for the Gurneys, of Shottenden; arms, Paly of six, parted per fess, counterchanged, impaling a saltier, engrailed. On a plain gravestone, a memorial for John Perronet, of Shoreham, in Kent, obt. 1767; and for the Colemans. Before the reformation, besides the high altar at the east end of the middle chancel, there were altars in this church dedicated to St. George, St. John and St. Anne, and very probably others for other particular saints; on or over them, in niches, stood the images of the several saints, before which were burnt wax tapers, to the maintenance of which, people used to contribute when alive and leave legacies at their deaths. Adjoining to the church-yard on the south side, stood antiently two houses, called the waxhouses, in which were made the wax lights used in the church at processions, &c. These were burnt down in 1641; since which a lease of the ground has been demised by the churchwardens to build upon.
This church was one of the three chapels belonging to the church of Minster in this island, and very probably was first begun to be built as early as the year 1050, and was made parochial sometime after the year 1200, when the church of Minster, with its appendages, was appropriated, in the year 1128, to the monastery of St. Augustine, and was at the same time assigned, with the chapels of St. John, St. Peter, and St. Laurence, with all rents, tithes, and other things belonging to them, to the sacristy of that monastery; and it was further granted, that the abbot and convent should present to the archbishop, in the above-mentioned chapels, fit perpetual chaplains to the altarages of them, to the amount of the value of ten marcs; besides which, they were to retain the manses and glebes belonging to them; but that the vicar of the mother church of Minster should take and receive, in right of his vicarage, the tenths of small tithes, viz. of lambs and pigs, and the obventions arising from marriages and churching forbidden at these chapels, the inhabitants of which, preceded by their priests, were accustomed to go, with much ceremony, in procession to Minster, in token of their subjection to their parochial mother church. (fn. 23)
www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol10/pp312-355
St John the Baptist, Margate, Kent On the 4th day of the first weekend of heritage weekend. Don't worry, I know that makes little sense, but the success and popularity of the event across the country means a single four day weekend is no longer enough, it spreads to a second.
And as next weekend, when Ride and Stride is on, we won't be in Kent, it was a case of having to make do with today only.
So, first it was off to Littlebourne, where the Nailbourne becomes the Little Stour, and behind the church hides a massive aisled barn.
Sounded interesting, was to be open from ten, so after breakfast of bacon and sausage butties, we drove off along the A2, turning off to go by Aylesham and Wingham, to Littlebourne.
Its a good job the even was well signposted, because once you're past the church there's no indication that hiding behind the mature trees and church is such a large building.
We found it, parked up and walked in, where the vast space was being used mainly to showcase local artists whose work was on display to raise funds for the village.
Sadly, nothing took our fancy, and was too early for coffee and cakes, so after taking a few snaps we went back to the car, where despite the forecast of Biblical rain, floods and thunder, there was warm sunshine.
It really was a race against the clock to see how many places we could visit before the heavy rain and storms swept in. So, from Littlebourne we crossed the former Wantsun Channel, through Stourmouth, Preston and Plucks Gutter and out onto the Thanet Way, then through Acol, without making a bid, past the old airport, the RAF Museum and into Margate, finding a place to park opposite the church.
On St Patrick's Day 2020, I went churchcrawling with my friend, John Vigar, one of the churches, Margate, cancelled as infection rates rose, and people began to take it seriously. We met up at a Victorian church in Ramsgate, me then heading back home instead of going to St Peter, as I had only just visited.
But here I was, just gone twelve, and the single bell was chiming, and the cadet band were playing at the west end of the church, and people were milling about.
St John is the oldest surviving church on Thanet, though the Victorian were busy with a heavy hand, and the less said about the dreadful windows on the north side of the Nave the better.
I explained to a lady I was trying to understand the history of the church, and so to my eyes, looked Victorian, with fittings perhaps from the previous church.
She was most upset, this is a Norman church, she explaine